Turkey’s third-largest city has more than 2,300 years of history, but İzmir isn’t defined by one famous monument. Instead, it’s a real Turkish city with its own food and character, and it’s close to three of the Aegean’s top day trips. After a few days, most visitors settle into the local rhythm. Around five in the afternoon, a sea breeze drifts in from the Gulf of İzmir and cools the air along the Kordon, the
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