Thirty miles out in the Atlantic, past the last reliable cell signal, sits an island that once ran the world’s whale oil supply and now mostly runs on cranberry bogs, cedar shingles, and a waiting list for dinner reservations. Nantucket has spent three and a half centuries figuring out what it wants to be, and the current answer, equal parts historic seaport, art colony, and extremely well-funded beach town, seems to be working.
In 1659,
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