Costa Rica is, of course, a paradise for nature lovers. It, therefore, makes sense that many people only wish to spend a minimal amount of time, if any, in the gritty capital of San Jose before heading to the beaches and tropical rainforests.
Surrounded by volcanoes, coffee plantations, and cloud forests and situated in the central valley, San Jose is the capital and largest city in Costa Rica. If you travel independently in Costa Rica, you will likely find yourself returning to the city on at least one occasion to take onward transportation.
Although San Jose doesn’t have the best reputation, the city has a few surprises up its sleeve. During my Costa Rican adventure, I found myself in the city three times in all. The good news is that San Jose doesn’t deserve the bad rap that it receives. Admittedly, it isn’t one of the great cities of the world, but it has a handful of interesting museums, some impressive street art, and even a flourishing culinary scene.
Additionally, because the capital isn’t focused on tourism, it has a more authentic vibe than the other destinations you are likely to visit in the country. If you are planning a trip to Costa Rica, you won’t regret dedicating a day or two to the capital before you head off to search for sloths.
What to do and see in San Jose
Plaza de Cultura
Plaza de Cultura lies at the heart of the city and is liveliest on weekends when street performers entertain the crowds and vendors sell empanadas, churros, and fresh fruit juices. Families stroll along eating ice creams, and children dart amongst the fountains. The surrounding streets are lined with shops trading everything from international brands to tacky souvenirs.
Costa Rica National Theater
With its neo-classical exterior, the National Theater was built between 1891 and 1897 and was inspired by the Palais Garnier in Paris. The ornate lobby is adorned with statues by Pietro Bulgarelli, and tourists are welcome to glimpse inside. The most spectacular feature is the ceiling mural by Aleardo Villa, which depicts rural life in Costa Rica at the turn of the 20th century. The National Symphony Orchestra performs regularly, and there’s a full program of ballet, plays, operas, and concerts throughout the year. Guided tours are available during the day.
The Museums
The Pre-Columbian Gold Museum is in a subterranean building located on Plaza de Cultura and is home to over 3,000 gold, ceramic, and stone artifacts. Spread out over several floors, the museum examines the significance of gold during pre-Colombian times. Signage is in both Spanish and English.
You can’t miss the striking sight of the Jade Museum, constructed to resemble a block of raw jade stone. Over 7,000 pieces of jade, pre-Columbian art, and pottery are on display on five floors. The exhibits are well-presented, and the information is in Spanish and English.
If you appreciate modern art, make tracks to the Museum of Contemporary Art and Design. Exhibits are ever-changing and include experimental, audio and visual presentations. The museum is small, but the entrance fee is only a couple of dollars, and it’s well worth a visit.
The National Museum is housed in a former fort that still has hundreds of bullet holes visible on its exterior, a legacy from the Civil War. The exhibits trace the natural history, anthropology, archaeology, and history of Costa Rica and give the visitor a broader perspective of the country. The showstopper is the butterfly garden at the entrance of the museum, where visitors can walk amongst an array of the country’s most spectacular butterflies.
Central Market
The market on Central Avenue consists of a maze of lanes and alleyways where vendors sell everything from electronic items to Costa Rican coffee. It’s an ideal one-stop destination to pick up souvenirs and gifts and the prices are generally lower than shops. If you want to try street food, dip into one of the tiny eateries where you can sit and sample freshly cooked snacks.
Street Art Galore
The street artists of San Jose bring life to the city, brightening up the concrete jungle with pockets of vitality. Much of the art is of a highly professional standard – eye-catching portraits, wildlife, and politics are all heavily featured. Colorful urban art can be seen all over the city, but the main hotspot is on Calle 17, behind the National Museum. It’s like an open-air art gallery, and there is no shortage of incredible work for street art enthusiasts to appreciate.
Eating
Costa Rica isn’t known for its cuisine, but a handful of innovative chefs are emerging who are revolutionizing the city’s food scene. Forget rice and beans; exciting times await foodies in San Jose. My top picks include the following:
La Oreja Negra puts a fresh spin on tapas-inspired dishes and specializes in local artisan beers. There’s a lovely courtyard where you can enjoy al fresco dining.
Restaurant Silvestre has an excellent reputation and serves traditional dishes with a twist in an elegant atmosphere.
El Buho Vegetariano is the best vegan restaurant in the city. The food is not only seasonal and organic but delicious and reasonably priced.