The chilled seaside city of Essaouira lies a mere three hours away from Marrakech by bus. A perfect antidote to the chaos of the metropolis, its atmospheric and bustling medina is magnificently located next to a long stretch of sandy beach and the crashing Atlantic Ocean. Essaouira offers an ideal combination of beach life and Moroccan culture and is also an excellent destination for a winter break, with daytime temperatures remaining balmy throughout the year.
Essaouira has a unique charm and what it lacks in swanky beach resorts, it makes up for in character – as I recently discovered. Seagulls glide over the ramparts of the city walls. Cats wait patiently at the harbour for the traditional blue fishing boats to return with their daily catch. The wind-battered location is an ideal spot for surfers of all levels. Along with the fortified city walls, an ancient watchtower overlooks the ocean. It’s no surprise that the medieval setting was used in the TV epic, Game of Thrones.
A popular hippie hangout back in the day, Essaouira will forever be associated with Jimi Hendrix, who stayed in town during the summer of 1969. It’s believed that his iconic song, Castles in the Sand, was named after the Dar Sultan Palace, a ruin still standing in the dunes, an hour’s walk from the city. His image is a common sight in shops and restaurants throughout the medina.
These days, the town attracts a hotchpotch of day-trippers, surfers and backpackers. It has maintained its boho vibe and many artists are drawn to the area as is evident by the abundance of galleries in the medina. The city has a wide range of hotels, hostels and Airbnb’s to choose from, but when in Morocco, nothing beats staying in a traditional riad. Rooms surround an interior courtyard decorated with tiles and mosaics, providing a cosy sanctuary after a day exploring.
The souks of Essaouira aren’t as overwhelming as those in Marrakech and the narrow alleyways and cute squares can be explored without the worry of getting seriously lost. Not only are prices cheaper, but the traders aren’t as persistent, making for a more laidback shopping experience. Small shops overflow with a variety of treasures including jewellery, handicrafts and locally produced argan oil. The aroma of spices and freshly baked baguettes fill the air.
The narrow backstreets which branch off from the main throughways are fascinating to wander through. Brightly painted doors, impressive tilework and antique signs add to the allure of the ramshackle, but colorful lanes where locals go about their day-to-day business. Those who roam off the beaten track are likely to stumble across hidden junk shops brimming with retro goodies and quirky hole-in-the-door cafes. Take a stroll along the main drag of Souk Jdid where the locals shop. Piles of fruit, nuts and fresh bread known as khobz are sold from carts and the area buzzes with activity from dawn to dusk.
Essaouira is home to a significant music scene and the genre most likely to be heard on the streets is Morocco’s captivating Gnaoua music. Derived from the slaves of West Africa, the spiritual and ritualistic music is performed by groups flamboyantly attired in vibrant traditional costumes. Every June the city plays host to the Gnaoua and World Music Festival. As well as Gnaoua music, the festival encompasses a wide variety of sounds from flamenco, blues and jazz to gypsy rumba. Artists congregate from all over the world and it’s an exciting time to visit with performances taking place throughout the town.
Another enticing aspect of a trip to Essaouira, is its food scene. Although it’s particularly known for freshly caught seafood, the local culinary offerings go far beyond its famous sardines, seabass and squid. Whether you are seeking the ultimate traditional tagine or craving delicious pizza, you won’t have to search far in Essaouira. There are oodles of hip eateries to check out and even vegetarians and vegans are well catered for.
If you can brave the stench of fish, one of the most interesting things to do is to head down to the port in the afternoon and watch the fishing boats return. It’s a frenetic scene, which hasn’t changed for hundreds of years. The nets are pulled up and fish off-loaded as stalls are set up around the harbor. Squawking seagulls swoop, attempting to steal a sardine or two, and stray cats wait for an opportunity to pounce on a tasty morsel. Fish is available for purchase at the stalls and can be cooked on grills for immediate consumption – seafood doesn’t get any fresher than in Essaouira.
The wide, sandy beach is perfect for walking, but the frequent high winds mean that it’s not always conducive to swimming. The beach is always a hive of activity. Locals kick around a soccer ball, while tourists take camel rides and water sports enthusiasts hit the waves. Horse-riding along the sands and quad-biking amongst the dunes are both popular pursuits. For those who want to try surfing, there are plenty of surf schools where lessons can be booked, or boards can be rented. At low tide, it’s possible to walk out to the craggy rocks which are situated just off the coast.
Sunsets in Essaouira are frequently spectacular and there is no shortage of great spots to enjoy them from. For those who like to indulge in a sundowner, there are several bars and restaurants with rooftop terraces that offer great views. Alternatively, head to Skala de la Ville, the structure lined with cannons which protects the town from the crashing waves of the Atlantic. Last but not least, watching the sun sink over the ocean from the beach itself is a very special and memorable experience.
Many people visit the town on a day trip from Marrakech, but it’s worth spending a few days soaking up the atmosphere and enjoying the salty sea breeze. In fact, it took me a day or two to appreciate the city’s distinctive vibe and uncover its hidden delights. This vibrant seaside enclave with its peeling facades and dusty sand-blasted streets won my heart. Now, I can’t wait to return to discover more of its secrets.