In the Rif Mountains of Morocco, the bewitching blue city of Chefchaouen was certainly somewhere I dreamt about visiting for many years. Happily, I finally made it there and I’m pleased to say that captivating Chefchaouen lived up to expectations.
With its blue-washed buildings, cute plazas, and delightful doorways, the small city is a feast for the eyes. To add to its appeal, it’s home to a huge population of adorable cats. In fact, Chefchaouen might just have the largest concentration of cats in the world.
Admittedly, there isn’t an abundance of things to do, but that’s part of its charm. The joy of a visit to Chefchaouen is getting lost in the picturesque alleyways of the medina, shopping for Moroccan handicrafts and watching the world (and cats!) go by from one of the many cafes. Situated on a hillside, the medina is largely traffic-free, making a stroll through the passageways a peaceful and enjoyable experience.
Chefchaouen has recently been discovered by social media influencers and a few of its streets have been ‘set up’ with colorful flowerpots, hats. and rugs. Visitors pose next to the props, seeking the perfect Instagram shot. Some of the streets are ridiculously photogenic, and it’s easy to get carried away capturing the many alluring sights.
There are many theories as to why the city is painted blue. Some say that it’s for practical purposes – to keep the mosquitoes at bay or to make the buildings cooler. Others believe that the Jews who settled in the city painted the walls blue in keeping with their religious and cultural ideology. In Judaism, blue represents not only heaven but also the sea and sky. Whatever the original reason, these days, the locals are encouraged to paint their homes blue to attract tourists. The result is stunning.
Much of city life is lived on lofty rooftops, and many of the hotels, guest houses, and restaurants have spectacular views from their terraces. One of my favorite eateries was Cafe Clock, where we climbed several flights of stairs to enjoy a platter of delicious Moroccan treats on a private terrace high in the sky.
Indeed, sampling the local cuisine is another delightful aspect of the Chefchaouen experience. Tagines, harira, couscous, and goat’s cheese are all popular dishes. One of my favorite discoveries was maakouda, a seasoned potato fritter and tasty street food snack.
With a cat on every corner, feline enthusiasts will think they have been transported to cat heaven. According to Moroccan tradition, cats are believed to be good luck, and the local community takes it upon themselves to feed and care for stray cats. One day, I spotted a gathering of cats surrounding a fishmonger who was sharing morsels with the meowing multitude. Cats are an integral part of life in Chefchaouen, and you won’t have to wander far before spotting a cat or even an entire feline family.
The main square of Plaza Uta El-Hamman is lined with shops and restaurants. It’s also where you’ll find the Grand Mosque and Kasbah. Within the thick clay walls of the ancient kasbah are peaceful gardens and fountains. It’s the ideal place to escape the hot Moroccan sun and linger awhile under the shade of one of the many tall trees. A climb to the top of the main tower rewards with panoramic views of the blue city.
Another great place to take in the view of the city is via a half-hour hike to the abandoned Spanish mosque. The route to the mosque twists its way through the blue streets and the trail then climbs gently along a hillside. It’s a perfect spot to catch the sunset, or indeed sunrise if you happen to be an early riser.
For those who wish to explore further afield, the Rif Mountains are home to a network of hiking trails leading to spectacular waterfalls, emerald pools, and canyons. Talassemtane National Park, just under an hour away by road, is a nature lover’s playground. Offering a wide variety of flowers and fauna, there are incredible rock formations, caves, rivers, and forests to traverse.
The majority of visitors arrive in tour groups, spending a mere few hours exploring the city, but it’s worth staying at least two or three nights. Not only does it allow more time to soak up the ambiance of this enchanting city, but it also explores the mountains and surrounding area. Hitting the streets early in the morning and later in the day means that you can avoid the day-trippers and immerse yourself in the dreamy blue streets without the crowds.
Wandering through the narrow winding alleyways, you may catch sight of a hooded figure wearing traditional Moroccan clothing (the djellaba) disappearing into a mysterious doorway. Tiny shops crammed with tempting trinkets lure in passers-by. The ever-present and enigmatic cat population doze on doorsteps or meander through the Medina on a mission to secure tasty leftovers, and the dazzling blue walls are all-encompassing. Chefchaouen has a certain whimsical quality rarely found in the world today and is, without doubt, a blue jewel in Morocco’s crown.