The woman across the farmhouse table in the Val d’Orcia had flour to her elbows and no patience for my ravioli. “Too thick,” she said, pinching the dough between two fingers like she was checking a fever, then rolling it back into the machine without further comment. It was day two of a five-day cooking course outside Montalcino, and I had, by that point, produced roughly forty ravioli that would have been more accurately described …